A Summer Visitor’s Correspondence to the Norfolk Register, Randolph, Mass.
“Agreeably to the promise made in my last letter, I will try to write you a description of the beautiful little town of St. Andrews. It is most beautifully located on the face of a gently sloping hill inclining from its summit, on which is built Fort Tipperary, to the waters of Passamaquoddy Bay on three sides, the fourth or northwest side joining the mainland, from which the peninsula projects itself. The southwest or face is that on which the town is built, sloping gradually down until it reaches the wharves which extend out into the inner harbour, in which there is the very best and safest anchorage for coasters and other small craft, and of which I will write more particularly bye and bye. In approaching the town by water, it presents its very worst features to view, the rear parts of the buildings on Water Street, on the appearance of which it is unnecessary to dwell, as everybody knows who has ever seen a seaport from the water, that the building necessary for storage and such purposes as they are used are not generally of the beautiful kind, but are more for use than ornament. The town in extent is about one mile long and five sixths of a mile in width, is laid out in wide streets, built with coarse blue gravel (about as good as macadamizing) running in parallel lines and at right angles with each other forming blocks or squares containing about ninety thousand square feet each, on which squares all its houses etc are built. There are six streets running the full length, and thirteen the full width of the town, the largest ones in a direct line from northwest to southeast, while the shorter run from the top of the hill to the harbour, northeast to southwest. While the longitudinal streets are almost level, the latitudinal ones rise gently from the water front to the summit of the hill, on the southwest face of which the town is built. There is, therefore, about twelve miles of streets in the town plot, so called, that pleasure seekers can use for driving purposes, all of good, solid, hard gravel bottom, on which a horse can trot altogether without being compelled to walk with a light team, besides miles of beautiful suburban drives, accessible within three miles of the market square or center of the business part of the town, and of which I will write later. The building generally are comparatively old fashioned, without much ornament, and contrast somewhat strangely with those of their American neighbours, there being a few of the French roof style which are the most modern buildings to be seen. The English cottage, which has become so fashionable in New England is not be seen here at all, the pitch roof prevailing, while a few hip roofs may be seen. The houses look very comfortable indeed, and with a few exceptions are well preserved. Here there is but little show of public building, the churches and hotels being the first to strike the eye. Of churches there are five—the Episcopal, the Scotch Presbyterian, or Kirk, as it is called, the Roman Catholic, the Baptist, and the Methodist, named in order according to their size, capable of accommodating in the aggregate, between two thousand persons with sitting room. While the whole number of the inhabitants scarcely exceeds these figures, so you will observe that they are amply provided for, with room enough to hear the Scriptures expatiated upon and sing their praises to the Great Ruler of the universe. The hotels, of which there are seven besides a great many private boarding houses, which have been opened for the accommodation of tourists, travellers and summer boarders, have been taxed to their greatest capacity this season, unpropitious as it has been, consequently greater accommodations have got to be and will be provided for those who intend to spend their summer vacations in this really delightful town, which, for a watering place cannot be surpassed in the Dominion of Canada, if indeed there is any place in the world which for natural advantages as such can equal it. St. Andrews has been rightly called the Saratoga of Canada and bids fair in time to leave its rival of that name far in the shade. The hotels named in order according to their size and capacity, and a description of which I will give you at some other time, are The Argyll, located at the eastern extremity of the town, on a high knoll, commanding a beautiful view of the town of SA, as well as the islands of and Passamaquoddy Bay; Kennedy’s which also is a new building, is located on water Street, at the eastern corner of Market Square, is newly furnished and capable of accommodating upwards of one hundred guests. Both of these hotels are constructed on the most improved and fashionable plans, being ventilated and lighted as well as it is possible for modern architects to plan. Next in order comes The American, newly furnished and fitted, Morrison’s, Megantic, Passamaquoddy, and the St. Andrews Houses, from which the traveller, tourist or summer boarder can make his choice and amongst which he cannot fail to find accommodations to suit both his taste and the number of his ducats. In my next, I will try to give you a description of the two principal hotels, as well as of the carriage drives, boating facilities, yachting courses, as well as the picturesque and enchanting land and water scenery of St. Andrews and Passamaquoddy Bay.” G. H. A. Y.
A Summer Visitor’s Correspondence to the Norfolk Register, Randolph, Mass.
“As your patience seems to be equal to the emergency in publishing my rambling jottings, I feel it to be incumbent on me to keep my promise of last week, while I try to give your readers a slight idea of the pleasures which are to be enjoyed by simply taking a vacation excursion, and stopping a short time in this delightful little border town. Of the two principal hotels which I promised to describe, the Argyll is the largest and most imposing in appearance situated in the extreme eastern part of the town but a short distance from either the N. B. and C. Railway or the Steamboat Wharf, on a large tract of land which, together with the sum of $5,000 in cash, were contributed by the Town of St. Andrews towards this enterprise, and has already cost the owners thereof about $25,000 to which is expected to be added a large wing on the southeast side which will give this fine building a grand frontage of about 300 feet, by 50 feet in width, to which is attached an ell running back on the northeast side, or rear, about 75 feet, making the distance from front to rear 125 feet, height three stories, with French roof, and tower or observatory, from which an excellent view of SA, NB; Robbinston, Maine; Chamcook Mountain, Passamaquoddy Bay, and all the islands of Charlotte County, both in Passamaquoddy Bay and Bay of Fundy, known as West Isles, may be had, which scene alone would compensate one well for hours of toil spent in striving to obtain it. The entrance to this building is large and airy, leading into a spacious hall 50 feel long, 14 feet wide at entrance enlarging to 30 feet at the rear, from which access is had to the dining room, which is a large hall, 54 by 44 feet, with a 22 foot ceiling, lighted and ventilated by eight large windows, four being one each side, and at night by handsome six light chandeliers. Adjoining the dining room is a large billiard hall, 21 by 44 feet, which like all parts of this house is newly furnished in the most modern style. . . . The range, which is one of the French wrought iron improved, has a cooking capacity for 300 persons. All the rooms are large and airy, being supplied with every convenience and excellent ventilation. The gent’s parlor which is on the right of the entrance is 20 feet square, and fitted with everything necessary for east and comfort. The ladies’ parlors, of which there are two, one being 22 feet, while the other is 17 feet square, connected or divided at will by folding doors, are richly furnished and carpeted, one being supplied with a Wedlock piano, the other with a Burdette organ. The basement is divided into five compartments, all of which are called into use daily. There is also a good livery stable in connection with the house, where good horses and carriages of the latest Provincial and American styles may be had a very moderate rates. Capt. Herbert, the proprietor of the Argyll aided by his wife, formerly of the Grand Falls Hotel, Grand Falls, N. B., will always be found about his business of which he is master, trying to make his guests comfortable and happy, in which he has attained a fair degree of success.
“Kennedy’s Hotel, of which the owner and gentlemanly proprietor, Mr. Angus Kennedy, is also manager, is located on Market Square, Water Street, (on the site formerly occupied for many years by the Railroad House, E. Pheasant, proprietor,) has a frontage of 50 feet, extends back 104 feet, and is three stories in height with a hip roof. It is a very commodious and handsome structure, while its internal arrangements are convenience, comfortable and airy. The rooms are large, high and well ventilated, and fitted with all the modern conveniences. The furniture, carpets, etc., are all new and very tastefully selected from the very latest designs and styles. The house in point of completeness of arrangement and elegance of finish, manner of ventilation, etc., will compare favorably with hotels of the same capacity either in the United States or Canada. Two verandas run along the front on the first and second stories. The entrance is large, opening into a spacious hall 44 feet long and 12 feet wide, from which doors open to the office, coat and washrooms, sample rooms, private parlor, and large dining room, in the rear of which are the kitchen, pantries and laundry, all of which are supplied with the most modern conveniences. On the second floor are the ladies’ parlors, which are commodiously and handsomely furnished, 16 sleeping rooms and bath rooms. There are 36 rooms on the third floor, while space enough remains unfinished to provide for 20 more bedrooms on the fourth floor. An air of cheerfulness and comfort seems to pervade the whole house,, which together with the geniality of mine host, the popular proprietor, Mr. Kennedy, must continue as it always has done to attract a large share of the patronage of those who visit Sa, either for business or pleasure. The location of the house makes it very desirable as a commercial hotel. In connection with the hotel is a good livery stable conducted by Burton and Murphy, who are always ready to supply customers with good steppers, fine carriages and equipments. T he views from the different parts of the house are very fine indeed, and nearly all the points of interest are to the seen without leaving it.
The carriage rives in and around the streets of St. Andrews, as I mentioned before, extend a distance of twelve miles. Let us first drive down Water Street, where the principal business of the town is done, towards Indian Point, where we get a good view of the inner harbor, St. Andrews Island, the different wharves and piers, steamboat landing., railway station, and all the different buildings, shops, etc., necessary at a railway terminus, the light house at the eastern entrance to the harbor, where, as we take the circuit of the race-course (so-called for years, but no longer called in use for racing purposes) the greater portion of Passamaquoddy Bay breaks into view, with its numerous islands all high land, and which divides it from the Bay of Fundy, thereby keeping out lots of fog, as it is an indisputable fact that at least two-thirds of the time, when fog is thick in the Bay of Fundy, or outside, as people term it, Passamaquoddy Bay and its surrounding islands will be as clear as a bell. This expanse of salt water is a perfect paradise for yachtsmen, and as beautiful as the eye could wish to see. To describe it fittingly would take too much space and time. It is 17 miles long and 9 miles wide, deep clear water running in length from northeast to southwest, and in width vice versa, at the point the Sand-reef Light about one and one half miles off shore, Magaguadavic Light at the mouth of the river of that name, at the northeast extremity of the Bay, and Pea Point Light, just outside of Big Letete passage, are plainly visible as we approach the Birch Trees. Driving towards Fort Tipperary, the town looks its level best, and must bee seen to be admired. Let us alight and mount the earthwork, while we gaze on the beautiful landscape around us. Immediately under our feet as it were, nestles SA, almost entirely hidden under the trees which seems almost like a forest from this point. The largest buildings, Church spires rising like sentinels above them being visible, the harbor with shipping, the island, an arm of the bay one mile long and three miles wide, between St. Andrews Island and Perry, Maine, are to be seen directly in front as we face the southwest, while as we turn gradually to the left and run down the coast of Maine to Pleasant Point and West Quoddy, Clam Cove head, Deer Island Pendleton’s and McMaster’s Island, with Big and Little Letete passages on the east of Passamaquoddy Bay, Mascareen, SG, Digdeguash, Oven Head, etc., in the distance, while directly in or near the northeast lies Katie’s Cove, with railroad trestle bridge, Hardwood Islands, Hog and Minister’s island, the Protestant Cemetery, the various farms with the fields of golden grain making a strong contrast with the surrounding and adjacent woods. To north lies Chamcook mountain, only four miles away, from which the most magnificent views can be obtained, standing out as they do in bold relief against the sky in sublime grandeur.
As we complete the circle we see the landscape dotted with farms, farm houses, etc., until we reach the mouth of the St. Croix River, which is something over two miles wide at this point, a magnificent sheet of water, which extends up into Oak Bay, retaining nearly that width about 12 miles. Red Beach, Robbinston, lever’s Cove, Mill Cove, and back again to Perry on the Maine shore, while the old Block House at the western end of the town, the Almshouse and Joe’s Point complete the picture that would required a large book to contain a good description in detail, but which has only to be seen to be admired. Let us enter our teams, drive around the head of the town, down Water Street, to Whitlock’s stable. Drove three miles. Gone one hour. Charge fifty cents.
The schooner Mary Ellen, of St. Andrews, bound to Pawtucket, Rhode Island, has been abandoned at sea, 100 miles east of Cape Ann. The crew were rescued by the schooner Zedic and taken to Liverpool, Nova Scotia. The Mary Ellen was 113 tons, built at Saint George in 1865, registered at St. John, with Mr. Robert Ross, of St. Andrews, as managing owner. Mr. Robert Ross received a telegram on Monday stating that he Mary Ellen was taken into Portland, Maine, full of water. [looks like the end of the Mary Ellen right here]
Part three of the Summer Visitor’s Correspondence to Norfolk Register. Scenery and drives in the vicinity of the town.
After the pleasurable experience of yesterday, supposed we enjoy a repetition of it today by taking a drive through the country in the immediate vicinity of the town. Having already ordered Will to hitch out his best turnout, which is now reported “all ready,” we get aboard and proceed to Joe’s Point, which is about a mile from the western corner of the town. On our way we obtain a splendid view of St. Andrews Harbor from the westward, St. Andrews Island, and the southwest arm of Passamaquoddy Bay, which lies between St. Andrews Island and the coast of Maine, easterly up to the mouth of the St. Croix River, between Joe’s Point on the Dominion side and Robbinston, Maine, on the American. The landscape which is undulating is beautifully varied with farms and their necessary buildings, woods, valleys and hills on the right while on the left is one of the most elegant marine views which could be imagined or described. Arriving at Joe’s Point we look up the St. Croix to the head of the Bay (Oak Bay) a distance of about 12 miles as straight a yacht course as can be laid, with 12 miles more from this point to Eastport, makes the whole distance 24 miles, lying northwest and southeast with a width varying from 1 ¾ miles at the astern end of St. Andrews Island. The yachting course on the southeast side of Passamaquoddy Bay is 17 miles long and 9 miles wide, running in length from northeast to southwest and all clear, bold water, without any dangerous reefs, rocks or shale. While viewing the scenery up the river we observe on the Dominion side of Kivel’s Cove, Sandy Point and all of Oak Bay. On the American side are Devil’s Head, above which point the river turns and bears away to the westward to Calais, Maine, and SS, NB, the Ledge and other place so minor importance. As we follow down the river, from Devil’s Head, on the Maine side, we see the Plaster Mills, Red Beach, Doucett’s Island and Robbinston, with the hills and mountains of Maine making a most magnificent back . . . the scene is as a beautiful and variable as one can imagine, (as a friend of mine expressed himself while riding over this road, “There is nothing here that looks alike, and yet every part of it is in perfect beauty and harmony.”) Having reached the Bay Side road, we will drive up the river a short distance as we view the silvery tide, the farm buildings and farms, as they all slope so gradually and beautifully from the road to the river, with the American shore in the background,--really beautiful beyond description. Still farther along we come to Oak Bay, which is a most charming spot, and has to be seen to be fully appreciated. Returning, we take the Bay Side to the Saint John road, and while here we must by all means visit Chamcook Mountain, from the bald head of which the most beautiful magnificent and grandest views are to be seen. Having arrived at the entrance leading to the summit, we have an ascent of about two-thirds to a mile to make before reaching it, we drive half way up, hitch our team and prepare to exercise our lower limbs. About half the distance to the top from our hitching post, we find it, well-not too steep, but quit steep enough,--while the remaining sixth of a mile; completing our last hitch or series of hitches, requiring the stretching not only of the lower limbs but also of the upper ones, too, in grasping the rocks, scrub bushes, etc, that my be within reach in assisting to carry and draw our bodes to that coveted position—the cap of old Chamcook. Hurrah! We have gained the top. The first thing in order is to regain our breath, which we have almost lost in the ascent. After drawing few draughts of the good, clear air of heaven, we hare ready to look about us and enjoy the scene, the beauties and splendour of which seem almost too much for us poor mortals ever to expect to realize; but here we are and if we can believe our sense, we see, we realize and we enjoy the magnificence, the grandeur, as well as the gorgeous beauties of this autumnal view. The air is as clear as cold be wished and fully as bracing as desirable, but the glorious scene as spread before us beggars description. In front, looking south, lies St. Andrews with the intervening farming scenery. Between the harbor St. Andrews Island and Passamaquoddy Bay, with all its island. As we turn gradually to the left we see the bold, rocky and forbidding shores of Grand Manan, 40 miles away in the Bay of Fundy, with the Island of Campobello lying between. Still more to the left and lying about due east are the Wolves, three dangerous island off Point Lepreaux and lying between that point and Grand Man. Between us lies Latete passage. The shores of Mascareen, SG, Digdeguash, on the northeast head of Passamaquoddy, with their hills and mountains forming a bold and grand background. Bocabec, and Chamcook, almost at our feet, with their harbors, coves and headland, off which place lie Hog, Hardwood (Big and Little, the later formerly used as quarantine, and where hundreds of emigrants’ bones lie, who died of ship fever in years past), and Minister’s island, the Narrows, Bar Road, Kitty’s Cove, the birch Trees, Indian Point, which form the northwest shore of the bay. Turning still farther to the left we see Waweig with its mountains and hills. Cranberry mountain with the lake of the same name on its summit, lying about north. The string of Chamcook lakes extending for miles almost northeast. Still farther to the left we see Oak Bay the head of the bay so called. A little farther to the westward the St. Croix River, with the Ledge, St. Stephen and Milltown, lying due west the Calais Maine the Devil’s Head, hills, mountains rivers, lakes Meddybemps in the distance, and the American shore on the southwest to due south clean down to Eastport, which completes the circle but gives very faint idea indeed of this grandly magnificent, most picturesque, enchanting an romantic scenery. As may naturally be supposed, this point the apex of Chamcook Mountain is much resorted to by picnic parties, although quite a hard climb it is not at all considered hazardous. The ladies as a rule, rather enjoying the ascent, while being assisted by their gallant gentlemen escorts. Let me say here that there are but very few ladies of ordinary good health who do not wish, after visiting the summit of this old sentinel, to repeat their experiences.
. . . of fresh friend trout to the bill of fare is most desirable even for a party of picnickers As a picnic locality there is no place where I have ever been, (and I have cruised the North Atlantic coast pretty thoroughly) that has so many places and advantages as St. Andrews. You can go to a new place every day in the week and month, still there will be as many more good picnic places left that you have not seen, finding them at almost any place along he shore of Passamaquoddy or the St. Croix river, with good beaches and beautiful shade. As we are now ready to return, the descent is to be made after a good, goodbye to the apex of Old Chamcook. Hoping to visit it again in the near future, we begin re retrace our steps, arriving at Hume’s Hill 1 ½ mils out of town, we gaze about us again to take a farewell of the scenery spread before us, and wonder why the artist had done so little to bring this beautiful and splendid scenery before the world. We now descend this hill, which is a very prominent feature in the landscape, take a turn down the Bar Road, about a mile and back into town, having made a day of it, and a day that will be remembered with deep interest during life. G. H. A. Y.
As Others See Us
A Summer Visitor’s Correspondence to the Norfolk Register, Randolph, Mass, US
Goodbye to SA
St. Andrews, Sept 1, 1881
This, my last day of pleasure and recreation, we will spend by attending a picnic and chowder party of St. Andrews island. MY letter commenced here, will probably be finished at the stating point, that beautiful village of S, which I left behind me nearly three weeks ago. ‘Tis a delightful morn, and nature seems to have donned her most charming garb, as if to make this our last day at St. Andrews a day that will ever dwell greenly in our memories. While I am writing, our party are now getting ready for the pleasure and recreations of the day, and I assure you that it is a most folly party too. A more propitious day could not have been produced even if made to order. 8:30 am and even now the boat are all ready, while the necessary provisions to appease the appetite of a hungry part, are now being transported to the pier, there to e stowed in the proper place so as to give room and accommodation to those of us who intend to show our appreciation of the good things by giving hem their appropriate places in our capacious bread basket. At 10:30 am we have landed at the spot where our day’s pleasure and festivities are to take place. Our cook, who has proceeded us, is now preparing the chowder, the principal ingredient of which is the “succulent clam,” and oh! What clams! Tender, fat and juicy, a feast in themselves, as our experience with our clam chowder will show for itself. On our arrival, some of us who had had experience with our cook, and knowing that we could depend on him on all occasions of his integrity, were somewhat surprised to hear him ask for some more fat for the chowder, knowing as we did that ample provision had been made in that direction but cook said he did not think that he had quite enough port to make said chowder as palatable as he could wish, but on being assured the we all would like and relish it better without so much fat, he resumed his duties, but not with so much confidence depicted on his features as we had noticed on previous occasions. However, the stow went happily on. The different individuals of our party wandered off the suit their different fancies, some alone, some almost, others in small squads, some lounging in the shade, etc., as is usual at all picnics, until the welcome dinner call was sounded. The edible and desirable being duly prepared our company seated themselves, proceeded to fortify the inner man with the substantial things of life. After eating for perhaps ten minutes, during which time the chin-music band had been playing some very lively airs, our meal was interrupted somewhat by cook wishing to know the private opinion of each and every individual on his ability as a cook, and also their opinion on the merits of that chowder. Every person, without exception, expressed himself and herself as fully satisfied with cook’s ability, and also with the flavour of the chowder. Still, he evidently was not happy while one of the party venture to request cook to free his mind, as it was beginning to be noticed that there was something heavily bearing him down, upon which cook exclaimed as if he had cast aside an immense burden:
“Thee is an inside history to this chowder that has not been told.” Immediately every spoon and mouth came to parade rest while no one would move until an explanation had been made, which came at last after much importuning by the ladies, cook remaking that he could assure us beyond a doubt that there certainly was no trichinae port in the chowder. Well, after such assurance coming from one whose honesty of purpose none could doubt, our mouths, reopened, while the march of the chowder went on. Having finished this the principal dish and all had become satiated with chowder, a heavy demand was of course made on the edible of a lighter and more delicious nature. While discussing these our cook was pressed forth inside history of that chowder, which he related in this way: Well, you see that as I came over here in advance, with this little geezer, (a four year old boy) to care for, and as my only assistant in preparing this meal I naturally felt somewhat nervous about the result, but however, I applied myself to the task by taking possession of the “Old camp ground” billing the boiler one-third full with water, lighting the fire, but up a quantity of port sufficient to enrich our chowder, which I placed where it would do the most good, foolishly casting what was left into the fire, then proceeding to bring the potatoes and onions into line. While attentively attending to this duty, my assistant showed evident signs of fear, which I first noticed by his calling my attention to the fact hat “I want to see mamma.” Immediately glancing up I discovered that my water had boiled out, the boiler was red hot in places, while my fat burned brightly and with lurid glare. Well! You see that it was impossible for one person, and that one a man, to grasp the situation and attend to both. In less than a minute I decided that it was of more importance to attend to the wants of 18 or 20 hungry picnickers than to only one, and he only an assistant; so Instead of grasping the situation, I clinched the pot, when the wrestle commenced; but to make a long story short, I lost the fat and had the boiler to cleanse. The party then being an hour late, I heartily prayed that they might be still two hours later. I got the stew started again, but used a bountiful supply of onions instead of the fat (which was past redemption). About this time the party arrived, when as you all remember I began to enquire of you all for fat, giving as an excuse, when told that provision was in the baskets sent in advance, acknowledging the contract, I told you that in my mature judgement I did not consider that I was provide with a sufficient quantity to make our chowder a success. However as no more fat was to be had, and you all have assured me that you would not like it fat, I proceeded with the business at hand, depending on the fat of clams along to grease this savoury dish (not, however without some misgiving in my conscience). The chowder having been seasoned to suit my aesthetic taste, and served up to suit yours, as you have all asserted, what better evidence can I produce to show that those clams contain fat enough in themselves to enrich a first chowder? Besides, what better evidence to you wish for to prove that there is no trichinae lurking in the hidden depths of this stew? Now to tell you all the truth, what made me feel so hurt in my feelings, was the fact that some, if not all you seemed to doubt the truthful assertion which I made for the simple purpose of dispelling any doubts which might occur to your minds concerning the merits of this delectable and savory dish. This explanation having thoroughly reassured our party of the honesty, veracity and inward true heartedness of our cook, it was unanimously voted “that his chowder, although minus port, was excellent. That cook be restored to full confidence and fellowship, and that the be permanently engaged to cater for our party through all time.” After spending the afternoon in roving, romping and rambling about the island for a few hours, the tea bells rung, which summons was responded to by all with alacrity. After doing ample justice to the meal, a stroll by moonlight on the sands followed, after which our party ere-embarked, were safely transported “to the other shore,” and scattered to our several resting places some of us to take our departure for the westward again on the following morn, which we did. After rather a tempestuous, tedious and misty voyage, reached Boston at 10 o’clock, pm, the following Saturday night, but just in time for me to take the 11:15 pm train for S., via the Old Colony and Fall RR, at which point I arrived time enough to take my regular port, beans and brown bread Sabbath morning and which served as gentle remainder that I had returned to New England and to the cares and duties of everyday life again. Mr. Editor and kind readers, let me here thank you for your toleration, patience an attention, hoping that all of you who can possibly do so, will try to spend at leas a part of your vacations in the future at SA, NB, as only by your experiences personally can the truth of my statements be vindicated. For much of my pleasure information, etc., I feel compelled to thank a former resident of your town who I happened to meet, and whose object in visiting St. Andrews was similar to my own. I hope that we may meet there again, and see some of your Massachusetts friends and acquaintance there also. With my best wishes to you all I will say “good night,” and still I remain the same G. H. A.Y.